Introduction
On February 27, 2025, Consumer Reports (CR), a respected nonprofit organization focused on consumer advocacy and product safety, released a groundbreaking investigation revealing the presence of cancer-causing chemicals in popular synthetic braiding hair products. This study has raised significant concerns, particularly for Black women and children who are the primary users of these products in the United States and beyond. Synthetic braiding hair, widely used for protective hairstyles such as braids, twists, and extensions, has been found to contain hazardous substances including carcinogens, heavy metals, and volatile organic compounds (VOCs). The findings underscore a critical public health issue, highlighting the lack of regulation and oversight in the beauty industry, especially for products marketed to Black communities.
Methodology of the Study
Consumer Reports tested two samples each of 10 popular synthetic braiding hair brands, totaling 20 samples. The brands included well-known names such as Sensationnel, Magic Fingers, Shake-N-Go, Sassy Collection, Hbegant, Debut, Darling, and X-Pression, many of which use Kanekalon—a synthetic fiber produced by the Japanese company Kaneka. The samples were blind-coded and sent to a laboratory for analysis, where they were tested for:
- Heavy metals, including lead, a known neurotoxin and carcinogen.
- Volatile organic compounds (VOCs), such as acetone, benzene, and methylene chloride, which are released when the hair is heated (e.g., during the common practice of dipping braid ends in boiling water).
- Carcinogens, chemicals known or suspected to cause cancer.
The testing simulated real-world conditions, such as heating the hair to 212°F (100°C), mimicking the process of sealing braid ends. This methodology ensured that the results reflected potential consumer exposure.
Key Findings
The Consumer Reports investigation yielded alarming results:
- Carcinogens in 100% of Samples: Every single sample tested positive for cancer-causing chemicals. Notable carcinogens included:
- Benzene: Found in three products, benzene is a known carcinogen linked to acute myeloid leukemia. It is heavily regulated due to its severe health risks.
- Methylene Chloride: Detected in all samples, this probable carcinogen is associated with liver and lung cancer after chronic exposure. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) bans its use in cosmetics, yet it persists in these products.
- Chloroform and Styrene: Additional probable carcinogens were identified, further compounding the risk.
- Lead in 90% of Products: Nine out of the 10 brands contained detectable levels of lead, a heavy metal with no safe exposure level. The highest concentration was found in Sassy Collection’s 100% Kanekalon Jumbo Braid, which exceeded California’s Maximum Allowable Dose Level (MADL) by 610%. Sensationnel X-Pression was the only product with no detectable lead.
- High Levels of VOCs: All samples emitted VOCs when heated, with Magic Fingers products showing the highest concentration—over 5 million micrograms per kilogram. VOCs such as acetone, toluene, and 1,2-dichloroethane were detected, posing risks including respiratory irritation, nausea, and long-term damage to the nervous system.
- Health Risks: The study highlighted immediate risks like scalp irritation, rashes, and allergic reactions, as well as long-term dangers such as hormonal disruption, reproductive harm, and increased cancer risk. Prolonged exposure—common since braids are often worn for 4–6 weeks—amplifies these hazards.
- Disproportionate Impact: Synthetic braiding hair is predominantly marketed to Black women, who make up the largest share of the $2.79 billion U.S. hair extension market. This demographic already faces higher rates of endocrine disorders, breast cancer, and uterine disease, making the findings particularly concerning.
Industry and Regulatory Context
The investigation exposed a significant regulatory gap. Synthetic braiding hair is classified as a cosmetic under FDA jurisdiction, yet there are no federal requirements for ingredient disclosure or pre-market safety testing. Manufacturers are not obligated to list chemicals on packaging, leaving consumers unaware of potential hazards. The FDA has not recalled any synthetic braiding hair products to date, despite these findings.
Responses from tested brands were mixed:
- Sensationnel stated, “We unequivocally stand by the safety of Sensationnel products,” urging consumers to continue use, but did not address specific chemical concerns.
- Magic Fingers claimed their products meet high safety standards, questioning CR’s testing methodology as unrepresentative of real-world use.
- Shake-N-Go and others did not respond to CR’s inquiries.
Kaneka, the producer of Kanekalon fibers, clarified that it supplies raw materials and does not control how companies dye or process the final products, suggesting that harmful chemicals may be introduced during manufacturing.
Impact on Consumers
For many, synthetic braiding hair is more than a fashion choice—it’s a cultural tradition and a practical solution for hair care. However, users have reported adverse effects, such as itching, throat irritation, and scalp redness, aligning with CR’s findings. The study’s lead researcher, James E. Rogers, PhD, emphasized the personal stakes: “As a father of two Black daughters, I know firsthand that getting braids is part of the culture, and alternatives to synthetic hair aren’t always accessible or affordable.”
The prolonged wear time of braids (often weeks or months) increases exposure to these toxins, which can be absorbed through the scalp, inhaled as VOCs, or ingested inadvertently (e.g., children chewing on hair ends). Professional braiders, who handle these products for hours during installation, are also at risk.
Recommendations and Advocacy
Consumer Reports has called for immediate action:
- FDA Regulation: The agency should classify synthetic braiding hair as a cosmetic, investigate its safety, and set strict limits on carcinogens and heavy metals like lead and benzene.
- Ingredient Transparency: Companies must disclose all ingredients to empower consumers to make informed choices.
- Safer Alternatives: The study found variability in chemical levels, with some products showing lower VOCs and one free of lead, proving that safer manufacturing is possible.
- Consumer Precautions: CR advises users to:
- Check for product recalls.
- Limit wear time and take breaks between installations.
- Report adverse reactions to the FDA and consult a doctor.
Advocates like Oriene Shin, CR’s Manager of Safety Advocacy, condemned the lack of oversight: “It’s appalling that toxic chemicals are in these products with so little scrutiny from those who are supposed to protect people, like the FDA. This inaction has failed Black women for too long.”
Broader Implications
This study adds to growing concerns about toxic beauty products targeting Black women. Recent lawsuits against chemical hair relaxer manufacturers (e.g., L’Oréal) have linked those products to uterine and ovarian cancers, while synthetic braiding hair now joins the list of unregulated risks. Experts like Dr. Tamarra James-Todd of Harvard’s T.H. Chan School of Public Health argue that these findings reflect systemic inequities in product safety, exacerbated by racism and inadequate research into Black women’s health.
Conclusion
The Consumer Reports study of February 2025 has unveiled a hidden danger in synthetic braiding hair, a staple in Black culture and beauty. With carcinogens in every sample, lead in nearly all, and VOCs posing additional risks, the findings demand urgent attention from regulators, manufacturers, and consumers. While safer alternatives exist, as evidenced by lower chemical levels in some products, the burden should not fall solely on individuals to navigate these risks. Stronger federal oversight and corporate accountability are essential to protect the millions who rely on these products, ensuring that cultural practices do not come at the cost of health.
AYROTV: March 12, 2025, 02:15 AM EAT
